Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Eye on the Diamond by Tiease D. Deutsch





Tiease D. Deutsch 
P.O. Box 5043
Charlotte, N.C. 28299
Faceebook.com/TieaseValleyofthePaperDivas
Myspace.com/PaperDollGallaria
 Twitter.com/TieasePaperDiva

  
Tiease's Eye on the Diamond

                          
Every Diva, and fashionista loves diamonds there's no secret about this fact, but not every admirer really comprehends the complexity and brilliant natural wonder of the diamond. How much do I really know about diamonds was the question I asked myself one day and promised myself that I would one day educate myself to a few diamond fundamentals. I would do some research to educate myself and I figured why not share what I find out about diamonds with my Fashionistas and Paper Doll Enthusiast reader of my new fashion blog. I'm not out to become a connoisseur just a better informed consumer and savvier Fashionista. So without further addle I present some of my basic findings on the subject of the captivating and often over-priced coal turned super star Diamond!
                                    Various types of diamonds
Pink Diamonds,White Diamonds ,Champagne Diamonds,
Pink Champagne Diamonds ,Yellow Diamonds,Blue Diamonds,Green Diamonds , and Diamond Stimulants (Cubic Zirconium and Synthetic moissanite).

Diamond type is a method of classifying diamonds by their level and type of chemical impurities. Diamonds are separated into four types: Type Ia, Type Ib, Type IIa, and Type IIb. The impurities measured are at the atomic level within the crystal lattice of carbon atoms and so, unlike inclusions, require an infrared spectrometer to detect." So what I've learned here is that diamonds are basically rocks composed of various elements which determines the purity and apparently the cost of a diamond.

Type IIb diamond, classified as such based on the diamonds low levels of nitrogen impurities comparable to Type IIa diamonds, Type IIb diamonds contain significant boron considered an impurity in the diamond society. Face for most people its all about the size, cut and setting of a diamond and not so much about the science so I will look into some cuts and weights.

A radiant cut diamond is a diamond cut invented by Henry Grossbard that infuses the rectangular or square shape of an emerald cut diamond with the brilliance of a round diamond. Should you ever be faced with the option of cutting a raw diamond keep in mind that this is an exactly process which requires  skill one wrong blow could result in a permanent strain on the crystalline lattice which affects the brilliance and cost of diamonds. So take care fortunately most of us aren't faced with this tedious task because we buy wholesale pre-cut and fully finished jewelry. There are many standard shapes for diamonds, such as round brilliant, emerald, pear, marquis and so on.


                              Much adieu` about Faux Diamonds?
How to detect a faux rock is at the top of most of consumers question  list and it not always easy but it can be done  in most cases. Digital money is swiftly becoming the widest used money in the world due to the internet and eCommerce, but when it comes to purchasing a diamond online a picture is never enough.  Ask for a certificate.grading authority (e.g. GIA, AGSL, LGP, PGGL)[1] or an independent appraiser who is affiliated with a professional organization (like the American Society of Appraisers). Personally I feel that diamonds are best purchased in person. The hands on & eyes peeled approach works best for me! Lets face it where ever there is money to be made there will be swindlers trying to rip you off.  For this reason  when purchasing a diamond anything as a novice a professional diamond appraised or gemologist with a tried and true track record and lots of experience is just a good rule of thumb.  Perhaps a  jeweler that you have personal experience with is another way to go-if you trust the individual.  The myth that diamonds not faux diamonds can cut glass is false some fakes a very capable of scratching glass. I have tested this old cliche out personally.

I believe in learning the fundamental of any new  subject I am investing in order to better understand it, so I thought it would helpful to my readers to know what Moissanite is. Mossanite is a trade name name given to silicon carbide which is used in the production of synthetic gemstones. Moissanite gemstones are used in all different types of jewelry including a variety of rings such as wedding rings, engagement rings, earrings, eternity rings, necklace, pendant, bracelet all set in silver sterling and gold. But the cost of Moissanite jewelry is just a fraction of the cost of jewelry containing real diamonds. Moisanite, Mossanite and Moisannite are all common mis-spellings. The high price of gem-grade diamonds has created a large demand for affordable imitation diamonds which have similar traits, like Moissanite and its famous predecessor  Cubic Zirconium.

The reasons for the sparkle affect of the bling is due to diamonds ability to bend light this quality is referred to as the "refractive index". Diamonds ability to bend light rays is their ancient appeal to us and why we treasure the bling!. Their dazzle, glimmer, and shine are the result of their light bending ability.  Faux diamonds have an inferior refractive index, resulting in less dazzle/sparkle, because they can't bend light like a diamond!  On the other hand double refraction (similar to double vision)  may indicate a fraud. No matter how much shine or fancy cut you put on quartz it still won't pop like the real thing. Some faux diamonds are made of Moissanite (silicon carbide), a gemstone that is so similar to a diamond that experts have been fooled. Cubic zirconium weighs approximately 55% more than diamonds for the same shape and size, so  if you can get your hands on a carat/gram scale to compare the rock in question to a genuine diamond.  Supposedly with a real mounted diamond you can't see the bottom of it when looking directly from the top. This is a commonly used layperson tid-bit I learned as a teen. A real diamond's reflections usually manifest in different shades of gray. If you see rainbow reflections this denotes a low grade diamond of a faux rock.

A Diamond/Moissanite Tester can help determine real from faux however diamonds and moissanites have very similar thermal conductivities. If you only use a diamond tester, it will show "diamond" when you actually have a moissanite. It is essential that you test any rock that tests positive as a "diamond" on a diamond tester on a moissanite tester as well. This is why most people who really want to be sure will purchase the combined diamond/moissanite tester. Ordinarily genuine diamonds aren't set in a inferior metals either (but personally I have run across faux diamonds set in 10K gold). Stamps inside the setting indicating real gold or platinum (10K, 14K, 18K, 585, 750, 900, 950, PT, Plat) are a good sign, while a "C.Z." stamp should give you a red flag  that the center stone is not a real diamond.

Keep in mind that there are forgeries. In fact Italy was once notorious for fake 18k gold, believe it or not. Once you know your stone is authentic you can insure and register it. Registration is done automatically for purchasers of a Rolex watches. By registering your diamond you have an identification number. This can help you ID your stone if stolen or lost.  
Diamonds from the Laboratory

When it comes to synthetic diamonds created in a lab I have seen professionals looking pensively in dumbfounded bewilderment. Simulated or lab-created diamonds are exactly the same chemically as the ones coming out of mines.  lab-made diamonds usually don't have imperfections either. Supposedly they are usually cheaper but since they are almost impossible to detect from the ones created by, "Mother Nature" who knows!. Cubic zirconium normally have no imperfections usually a giveaway clue of a faux, since real diamonds do tend to have some imperfections. For unmounted stones you can turn it upside down and place it on a piece of white paper with writing on it.  With a real diamond you won't be able to see anything, unless the cut and/or proportions are off they it may just be a poor quality rock or a fake.
Try this under a microscope hold the stone table (top facet) down. If you see an orange flash only to the facets as you rock the stone it is fake.
Another thing you can do is to test your stone with a heat probe. Genuine diamonds disperse heat quickly and they won't heat up with the probe. This takes about 30 seconds and is often done free of charge. It also doesn't hurt the stone like trying to use sand paper to see if a diamond can scratch it. You may find you have a real diamond when using sandpaper but unfortunately damage your diamond.
Real diamonds do not show up on an x-ray, glass, cubic zirconium and crystals all have slightly radiopaque qualities, diamonds are the opposite.

 Keep in mind that where there are rules to break and money to be gained there are ways of overcoming detection obstacles, so "buyer beware". An appraisal cab range from 40 to 125 US dollars.  Here's a personal tip I learned as a teenager which still holds true today. If you take your rock to anyone and they proclaim it to be fake always have them return the diamond to you and you take  it and leave with it. Never ever leave your diamond assuming the individual will just dispose of it. Many people have left valuable genuine stones behind falling for this trick. In addition never allow your real diamond to leave your sight during appraisal or when attempting to resell it. Diamonds have been stolen or switched out for fakes in this situation. Thoroughly wash your diamond then if you don't mind pop it into your mouth (take care not to swallow it!) to breathe on it. If the stone stays "foggy" for 2-4 seconds, chances are its faux. Ordinarily genuine diamonds have clear within the time you look at them. Beware though since crooked individuals may cap cubic zirconium bases with real diamond to cause them to clear rapidly like a genuine diamond. By now you have probably figured out that there are no guarantees, because even some experts have been fooled. Certificates are suppose to certify the stone is genuine, but the paper is only as genuine as the seller.

With quality costume jewelry so popular today it's easy to purchase a good looking faux diamond which is difficult for even an expert to detect with the naked eye. So it's really psychological, unless you are investing in diamonds and with inflation continuing to rise the value of diamonds usually increases. Keep in mind that people in the business fair better when it comes to resell and return on their investment the average consumer must be knowledgeable, savvy and shop around in comparing offers. Just like gold all that glitters isn't gold and all that sparkles isn't genuine diamond. Never-the-less fakes can be so much fun and serve just as well as attractive accessories.  Ms. Eva Gabor reportedly wore faux diamonds. A  Hungarian-born socialite and actress (February 11, 1919 – July 4, 1995) was widely known for her role on Green Acres and sporting faux jewelry.

Well that's it for me. There is so much information on diamonds I could go on for hours and I will probably follow up with more articles on this subject at a later date, since I intend to keep researching and learning until I am satisfied. Until next time Divas enjoy your bling!

Tiease D. Deutsch  Copyright 6/7/2011





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